Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia and stretches north to south along the confluence of the Tonle Sap, Bassac and Mekong rivers. Phnom Penh is a vibrant, bustling and ethnically-diverse city with a mixed population of Khmer, Chinese and Vietnamese peoples. Compared to most Asian capitals it is a veritable oasis. Its 12km square are home to a population of about 2.5 million. The French left a legacy of crumbling colonial architecture, some of which has been tastefully renovated. Sidewalk restaurants have sprung up all over town, especially around the recently developed river-front area. There are bars to suit all tastes and nightlife can be pretty lively. The number of Wats means you can often see monks in saffron robes wandering the streets seeking alms.
Phnom Penh International Airport:
Pochen Tong International Airport is about 15km west of the city. It has banking, money changing, post and telephone facilities. Pochen Tong also offers restaurants and bars serving food and drinks at reasonable prices, compared to most international airports. Leaving the airpot: taxis and motor taxis can be hired from the airport to the city and cost $7 - 8 (taxi) and $ 2- 3 (motor taxi).
Cars and Taxis:
Unmetered and unmarked taxis are common and hiring them can be arranged through your hotel or travel agent.
On Monivong Blvd cars and taxis can be hired outside hotels. They cost $20 - $30 / day.
Sisowath Quay, opposite Street 104, forms the Port of Phnom Penh and taxis can also be hired at the quayside to take you to and from your hotel.
Bus, Motor Taxi and Bicycle, Cyclos

Angkor Thom
Date : Late12th/ Early 13th century , Religion : Buddhism
Reign : Jayavarman VII , Style : Bayon

Angkor Thom is the magnificent royal city built at the end of the 12th century during the reign of King Jayavarman VII. Construction began shortly after Angkor had been wrested from the Chams by Jayavarman.
Angkor Thom is built in a vast square bordered by a 100m-wide moat and an 8m high wall. The city is oriented to the compass points and each of its walls is pierced at the centre by a towering gate. There is a fifth Victory Gate in the east wall allowing access to the palace grounds. The four principal gates are entered via four causeways spanning the surrounding moat. The causeways were originally flanked by lines of competing gods and demons pulling o¬n a naga.

The best preserved of these causeways leads to the South Gate and gives some idea of how imposing the city must o¬nce have been. Many of the figures in the causeway's freize had their heads removed by relic hunters and very little of the original stonework remains. A number of the original heads were later removed for their own safety and now reside in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

Several earlier temples such as the Baphuon were encompassed within Angkor Thom and Jayavarman proceeded to add to these. Among the construction projects undertaken within the city's limits was the construction of a Royal Palace, set atop a terrace supported by near life-sized elephants, and the building of the awe-inspiring Bayon Temple which is alleged to have been covered in gold-leaf.

Angkor Wat
Date : Early-Mid 12th century , Religion : Hindu , Reign : Suryavarman II , Style : Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is not simply a temple, it is the symbol at the very heart of the Khmer people’s pride in their culture and heritage. Three of its five towers adorn the flag of the Kingdom and are reproduced in countless works of art and handicraft.
The name Angkor Wat, (‘Capital’ or ‘Holy City’) is derived from the sanskrit word ‘nagara’. It served as both a capital and as a religious centre during the reign of King Suryavarman II. It was Suryavarman II who built Angkor Wat and dedicated it to the God Vishnu. It is generally believed that the temples, sculptures and artwork produced during the reign of Suryavarman II represent the high watermark of Khmer culture. Though Jayavarman VII was more prolific, many of the temples built during his tenure were confused in design and execution. Suryavarman's artisans appear to have achieved perfection.
Angkor Wat is encompassed by a moat 1.5 kilometres long (from east to west) and 1.3 kilometers long (from north to south). The moat is crossed via a single causeway o¬n the western side. Like the West Baray, the moats at Angkor Wat were probably hand-excavated.
The jewels of Angkor Wat are the jaw-dropping series of bas-reliefs around the lower levels depicting victorious moments in the military might of the kingdom and numerous figures and stories from the Hindu pantheon. The the most famous is the magnificent ‘Churning of the Ocean of Milk’ in which the God Vishnu presides over numbers of competing deities and demons as they strain to pull o¬n each end of a naga, the multi-headed cobra and protector of the Kingdom.
The temple contains two prominent structures found in Khmer architecture: the mountain pyramid and the inked galleries. The pyramid shape reflects the Hindu home of the Gods, Mount Meru. Angkor Wat’s pyramid is elevated over 3 stages. The lotus flowers of its four exterior towers form a quincunx with the fifth, central tower. This arrangement of five items to convey good fortune, power and protection is found in many of the Angkorian temples and was almost certainly drawn from Hindu mythology and numerology. Many linga stands were arranged in a similar way.

The Great Sanctuary of Angkor Wat faces west and late afternoon sunlight striking the Sanctuary softens its color to amber-gold. This is the best time to photograph the site. Trips to see the sunrise catch Angkor Wat in silhouette. The most popular place for taking photographs of the temple, at any time of day, is the northern reflecting pool.

The city was finally sacked by the Thais in 1431 and never recovered its earlier power or glory. The capital was moved to the area around Phnom Penh, probably to facilitate maritime trade. However, Angkor Wat continued to be used as a religious site by the Khmer people and does not appear to have been totally abandonned, even after the outside world forgot about it. The handful of western adventurers who visited the site during Cambodia’s ‘Dark Ages’ reported it was still in use. European interest was eventually stirred in the 1860s by the diaries of the French explorer Henri Mouhot. It now ranks as o¬ne of the world’s premier tourist sites.

Prasat Bayon
Date : Late 12th century, Religion : Buddhism
Reign : Jayavarman VII , Style : Bayon

The Bayon is perhaps the most enigmatic of the temples built during the reign of Jayavarman VII. It vies with Angkor Wat as the favourite monument among visitors. The Bayon post-dated Angkor Wat by about 100 years but it appears to have been built o¬n the site of an earlier temple. The Bayon itself underwent a series of changes before evolving into its present form. As a consequence its architectural style is somewhat confused compared to other classical-period temples.

The Bayon’s aura comes from a series of towers o¬n its third level. The towers sport four huge heads apiece, over fifty in total. The heads may be representations of Jayavarman VII himself, or the Buddha, or the benign and compassionate spirits of Mahayana Buddhism known as Bodhisattvas. The heads may just as easily be composites of all three.

The Bayon also boasts bas-reliefs to rival those of Angkor Wat and these give an extraordinary window into the daily life and military techniques of the period.

As with other Angkorian temples, the Bayon is beginning to groan under the weight of tourists. There will undoubtably be lasting damage to the structure, though locals are equally concerned that the true purpose and spirituality of the Angkorian temples is also being lost. The Bayon's popularity, particularly with Japanese and Korean package tourists, means that photographing the site has become increasingly difficult.

Tonle Sap Lake -fishing boat

Tonle Sap Lake Boat house
Landless family build floating houses and their primary source of income was fishing on the lake.

Prasat Neak Pean
Date : Late 12th century , Religion : Mahayana Buddhism
Reign : Jayavarman VII , Style : Bayon

Although Neak Pean is o¬nly a small temple with a collection of five ponds it is worth seeing for its unique features. It is believed to have been built to celebrate Buddha achieving the state of Nirvana. The central pond is a replica of Lake Anavatapta in the Himalayas, situated at the top of the universe. The lake gives birth to the four great rivers of the earth. These rivers are represented at Neak Pean by sculpted gargoyles corresponding to the four cardinal points. Lake Anavatapta was fed by hot springs and venerated in India for the healing powers of its waters. The orientation of the ponds at Neak Pean ensured that the water was always fresh because the ponds receive only reflected light. Neak Pean is a 70m-square man-made pond, bordered by steps and surrounded by four smaller ponds. A small circular island with a stepped base of seven laterite tiers is in the center of the large square pond. Best seen in the Rainy Season.

Ta Promh
Date : Mid 12th/early 13th century , Religion : Buddhism,
Reign : Jayavarman VII , Style : Bayon.

Ta Prohm is only rivalled by Beng Melea in terms of recreating the experience of the early explorers who re-discovered Angkor. Its structure is being steadily subsumed by trees, making it very photogenic. Ta Promh is in better condition than Beng Melea, has superior carvings and is far easier to visit. In its prime, Ta Promh boasted a fabulous wealth of precious stones and gold and controlled the activities of thousands of villages. It was constructed early in Jayavarman VII’s extravagant building programme and was dedicated to his mother. Clearance work has been thoughtfully undertaken at the temple so as not to harm Ta Promh’s mystical ambience. Visitor’s limited by time should make every effort to see Ta Promh

Preah Khan

War Museum
A Truck used by the Khmer rouge for transporting their ammunition during their rule in Cambodia. (1975- 1979).

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TRAVEL INFORMATION
Note: please note that the information contained herein is current as of the date of publication. However, things do change, especially concerning visas and border crossings. It is always advisable to verify the information before you travel.
Travel Advice International Borders and Crossing Points
Cambodia shares international borders with the following countries:
Thailand: there are border crossings with Thailand at Poipet, Koh Kong, O'Smach, Pailin, and Kamreang. Cambodian visas and 30-day Thai transit visas are available are available at each of these crossings. The Thai crossing at Poi Pet is closest to Siem Reap while Koh Kong is closest to Sihanoukville. At Poipet and Koh Kong Cambodian immigration is charging 1,000 Baht for a Tourist Visa and 1500 Baht for a Business Visa and making a profit on the exchange rate.
Vietnam: the principal border crossings are at Moc Bai and Chau Doc. Cambodian visas are available if you are travelling from Vietnam. However, if you are travelling from Cambodia to Vietnam you must obtain a visa before you leave. Vietnamese visas are best arranged through an agency in Phnom Penh. They are not available at the border.
Laos: there is a land border crossing at Voeung Kam but border policy is not yet stable. Cambodian and Laotian visas are not supposed to be available at the border but this situation could change very rapidly. Travellers have crossed between the two countries and a formal crossing point on the Mekong is almost inevitable. There are security problems for travellers Kratie and Stung Treng and banditry is more common in this part of Cambodia than in others. Check the current border situations with a reliable agency or Embassy before you leave.
Visas
Visas are available upon arrival at most border crossings and international airports. The visa fee is $25 for a Business Visa and $20 for a Tourist Visa. A visa is required for most nationalities. Vaccination certificates are not required. A one-month Tourist Visa is available on arrival at the airports in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. A Tourist Visa obtained at the airport requires 1 passport photo. Visa application forms are provided on inbound flights. Visas are also available at Thai/Cambodian or Vietnamese/Cambodian overland border crossings.
Travel Information
A passport valid for at least six months beyond the end of your visit is an entry requirement. A Cambodian visa is issued officially at the following ports of entry:
By Flight: Pochentong Airport in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap Airport (Angkor Wat Region).
By Land: Travelers can journey to and from Cambodia by land via the Poipet and Trat / Koh Kong border crossings with Thailand; and to Vietnam via the Moc Bai-Bavet border crossing.
For the times and prices of bus, boat and train journeys within Cambodia see the travel advice in the relevant Town Guides section of this web-site.
Advice for Backpackers
Khoa Sarn Road (Bangkok) to Cambodia: What the other guidebooks do not tell you
If you are currently in Bangkok and thinking of heading to Cambodia on a Khoa Sarn Road bus package, here is what to expect from the journey and some advice on how to avoid scams. Please be assured you are heading for a fascinating, friendly country with a diverse culture. This information is designed to help you get you to Cambodia safely and with a minimum of stress.
• Avoiding Potential Scams #1: Visas
The highest overcharge you will face will be on a visa purchased at the border. Buy your visa through an agent in Bangkok and pay around 900 Thai Bhat. Cambodian visas purchased at the border currently cost 1100-1300 Thai Bhat. The true price of a Cambodian tourist visa is $20. Check the exchange rate at the time you buy the visa to make sure the Dollar/Bhat conversion is acceptable.
• Bangkok to Poipet
You will be taken to your bus in Bangkok between 6.30am-7.30am, though it probably won’t leave the pull-in near Khoa Sarn Road until 8.00-8.30am. The trip to the border takes about four hours but you will stop for one hour at a restaurant near Arranyaprathet. Anyone without a visa will be offered one for around 1200 Bhat. The bus will then drop you at the Poipet border crossing between 12.30pm and 1.30pm. As all the tourist buses arrive at once you may take over an hour to clear Thai Emmigration.
• Avoiding Potential Scams #2: Visa Touts
Pay no attention to anyone attempting to sell Cambodian visas that is not clearly an Immigration Official. The visa may not be valid and will probably be overpriced. There are signs on the Thai side of the border informing tourists to report such touts to the authorities.
• Avoiding Potential Scams #3: Inoculation Certificates
Cambodian Immigration has previously run an Inoculation Certificate scam. This entails the visitor paying a 50 Bhat fine for not being able to produce an Inoculation Certificate. Having an Inoculation Certificate is not an entry requirement for Cambodia and you are not obliged to pay the fine. Politely stand your ground and refuse to pay.
• Avoiding Potential Scams #4: Cambodian Currency Exchanges (Poipet)
Prior to a long wait at a Cambodian Bus Company Office (see below) a representative may board your bus and give you some questionable advice on changing money at the border. He may very well be aggressive in his approach. Do not change money at the border. The rate of exchange is truly awful and you will certainly lose money. American Dollars are the de facto currency in Cambodia and any information to the contrary is untrue.
• Time Wasting
Cambodian Immigration can take 1-2 hours to process all the tourists queuing for entry. This can be the beginning of a long wait at Poipet. Once through Immigration Control you will no doubt be hoping to continue your journey to Siem Reap. Hope on! The Bus Company will drive you half a mile down the road (possibly with a trip to a currency exchange thrown in) and drop you at a cafe or bus terminal for another hour or more. You may or may not be given information about why your bus isn’t ready and you may well ask why you can’t depart on the bus that brought you from the border.
• Journey Time
The overall journey time from Bangkok to Siem Reap is generally at least 12 hours in the rainy season and little better in the dry season. There is a purpose to the interminable time wasting on the Cambodian side of the border. When you finally reach Siem Reap your bus will take you to a pre-ordained hotel that has paid the Bus Company to drop you there. This is not a scam: if you choose not to stay at the hotel, the hotel loses money. It will be evening at best or late at night at worst when you arrive and you will be tired, disorientated and will not have time to seek another hotel. Budget hotels in Siem Reap are that desperate for business.
The irony is that the hotel where you get dropped will probably be good value, friendly and able to organise trips to the Angkor Temples at competitive rates. The budget guesthouses in Siem Reap are much the same and switching hotels is unlikely to save you money. You, however, will be exhausted and irritated and will probably want to check out at the first available opportunity.
• Pity the Poor Hotel Rep
There will be a representative of the designated hotel on your bus. He has no control over the stops at the currency exchange or the string of over-priced restaurants en-route. Please be nice to him: he has one of tourism’s most thankless jobs. Once you have been cheated, delayed and bounced up and down for 5 hours on Highway No.6 the young man on your bus has to try to convince you to stay at his hotel. Put yourself in his position! Hotel reps. are generally very polite and you can believe most, if not all, of what they tell you. Out of courtesy have a look at the rooms in his hotel. There is no obligation to stay. Many budget guesthouses will drive you to another hotel for free if you decline their services politely.
• One Final Tip
You may be very tired and even angry at the end of your journey. However, the above advice on courtesy is important. This is Cambodia, an Asian country whose citizens are generally very polite and friendly. ‘Loss of Face’ or losing your temper are serious social faux pas here and you will enjoy your time in Cambodia far more if you conduct yourself in a similarly polite and friendly manner.

 

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